In keeping with the previous post, it is apparent that I am ever so slightly obsessed with the science behind skin, treatment and skincare cosmetics, and the research that lies behind the finished products. Having always suffered with extra sensitive skin and dermatological problems, I am no stranger to researching products and chemicals that most consumers so readily slather on their face. Here's a summary of just a fraction of the science that has caught my attention behind skincare right now.
Browsing through websites, and jumping from blog to article, I stumbled upon THIS short article published in The Scientist around a year ago; the article describes how much research is now focused on gene microarrays to understand skin tone and ageing, enabling the search for more targeted molecules to activate specific genes. Metabolism models, in-vitro models and cytosensors used by pharmaceuticals and cosmetic companies are also summarised. And, it is interesting to note that much cosmetic research now uses only petri-dishes and skin cultures, rather than controversial animal testing.
More recently, hype has surrounded the newest a-lift anti-ageing nano-current facial. The principle behind this relies on the treatment mimicking the body's electrical frequency by attempting to increase intracellular ATP (adenosine triphosphate) levels to 're-charge' your cells. The ultimate aim of this is to turn back the clock by increasing collagen production and blood circulation. The advantages compared to other treatments are fairly blatant - it's non-invasive (demonstrating no recovery time), uses no chemicals, and is seemingly painless (after reviewing numerous sources). However, a quick google search wasn't enough to find any scientific papers or articles evidencing the research in place behind the treatment.
Let's talk about salicylic acid. Beauty bloggers have been raving about it, and it is a common ingredient in many topical anti-acne products, as well as being used for pain relief (present in aspirin). Most skincare packaging makes a point of drawing attention to the fact that salicylic acid is an active ingredient, but I'm yet to find any explanation of what it does, other than 'it's good for spots'. Salicylic acid is a plant hormone derived from willow bark; it functions as a signaling molecule in the body and pathogenic defense in plants. When used for skin, it causes epidermal cells to shed more easily and open up blocked pores to aid cleansing of the skin. To notice the effects, this must be used long-term and not as a one off treatment. It can be useful to read up on ingredients to ensure more targeted treatment for your personal skin problems. A helpful source can be found HERE.
One last thing - as much as I appreciate being educated by a brand about their product, I can't help but cynically think that this is just 'clever branding', and that scientific jargon is often used as a convincing ploy. I, like many other consumers, will trust a brand so much more if it appears to be backed up by science! And, I'm sure that much branding relies on this - for example, walk up to many make-up counters and you are likely to be greeted by a helpful salesperson in a lab coat! More importantly, endure a consultation with a salesperson in the know about the scientific properties of the product, and sadly, there is a large chance that I will be going home with said product!
'The Science Behind the Beauty' will be a regular post, aiming to summarize the scientific principles behind skincare and cosmetics, and hopefully help any readers who are interested!
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